2020 brought me back to Mangalore — my hometown — after 10 long years. When I left in 2010, it felt like the city did not have a clear, well-developed identity. A pitched battle was unfolding — the old & conservative against the young & restless. The two sides were tearing into each other, as was evident from the several cultural clashes that emerged from that time. We all saw the horrifying media coverage. Tourism was nonexistent — except religious tourism and commerce mostly involved trade, real estate and education.

Now, having been back here for almost a year, the Mangalore I see is very different from the one I left. The fact is, most cities don’t change drastically in 10 years. However, every city reaches a take-off point at which it grows and evolves at breakneck speed or it goes into slow decline. The Mangalore of today is tasteful, sophisticated, globally aware, commercially busy, conscious about art and culture, as well as about fun and adventure!

The Human Development Index numbers are very good — as is the connectivity in and around the city. I suspect that the population has also exploded. As per the last census numbers, Mangalore had a high-value population but a small one. It was ranked 96th in India with even cities like Gulbarga having a larger population. I suspect the next census will show a significant increase.

Mangalore works as a single urban agglomeration and the population is much larger if you account for the entire Dakshina Kannada district. Mangaloreans working in cities like Bangalore, Pune and Mumbai have come back home — just like I just did when the pandemic hit — and found it hard to leave after!

Right now, what Mangalore needs is its own identity — just like our neighbours to the north and south. Goa has exotic food, copious amounts of booze and ‘good times’ — susegad — with its colonial mood and slow pace. Kerala is “God’s own country” with its beautiful backwaters and Ayurvedic wellness. And it feels like Mangalore has always stood in the shadow of Kochi and Panjim.

But over the months I have spent here, it is evident that a new culture of tourism has emerged in Mangalore. Hiking, surfing, river activities, fishing, farming, artisanship, skill-based tourism and culinary programs have emerged, signalling the emergence of a new identity for the coastal town.

A lot of these projects are micro tourism setups promoted by village committees and locals, the benefits of which are spread across the whole community. You would be hard-pressed to find a single big-ticket project anywhere between Mangalore and Karwar. Instead, there has been an explosion of homestays, riverine adventures, climbing trails, camping, agriculture and surf shacks. People are attending a lot of pop-up events and cultural functions at various places that have a farmer’s market quality to them, along with a lot of variety.

I think it’s now safe to say that the Karnataka coast — our Karavali —is slowly but surely developing an identity of micro tourism projects driven by sustainable principles and curated for the discerning explorer who is looking for unspoilt and unique experiences. And I feel privileged to be back here at this unique moment in Mangalore’s journey and to dive deep into this evolution!